HI WELCOME TO MY DUNHILL SITE
I AM BASED IN AUSTRALIA AND I STARTED TO COLLECT RONSON LIGHTERS 20 YEARS AGO BUT I FELT A CHANGE WAS NEEDED .SO I SOLD OFF ALL OF MY RONSONS TO MOVE TO DUNHILLS MAINLY THE ROLLAGAS MODELS. I SOON DISCOVERED THAT WHILE BEING A BEAUTIFUL AND INNOVATIVE LIGHTER THEY WERE REASONABLE IN PRICE, FOR A STARTING POINT THE ONLY DOWN SIDE IS THEY DO NOT STORE WELL THAT IS IF UNUSED FOR A LONG LONG TIME THINGS HAPPEN LET ME EXPLAIN SOME OLDER LIGHTERS HAVE BEEN KEPT IN A DRAWER FOR TEN YEARS OR MORE THE OWNER DECIDES TO SELL IT HAVING PAID 200 POUNDS/400 DOLLARS LIST IT ON EBAY IN PERFECT CONDITION NEVER USED IN BOX WITH PAPERS .THIS IS GOOD SO FAR HOWEVER OVER TIME THE FLINT LEFT IN IT HAS OVER TIME EXPANDED AND TURNED TO MUD IN DOING SO IT WILL SPLIT THE FLINT HOUSING. NEXT THE DUNHILL RELIES ON A SERIES OF O RINGS TO WORK AND SEAL GAS TIGHT THESE HARDEN AND SHRINK WHICH I FOUND WAS THE CASE IN MOST LIGHTERS THAT I BOUGHT .ALL OF THIS IS REPAIRABLE BUT WHERE
THERE ARE SEVERAL OPTIONS 1) SEND IT TO THE U.S,A COST $145 MIN FOR SERVICE EG: O RINGS +COST OF PARTS 2) SEND IT TO DUNHILL IN LONDON COST USUALLY OVER 100 POUNDS OR TRY TO DO IT YOURSELF WHICH OUT OF NEED IN AUSTRALIA I LEARNED TO DO THERE ARE MANY TRAPS TO FALL INTO TO
DUNHILL TIPS AND TRICKS
.The first being have all you need to do the job eg:2 o rings filter pad and tools a small screw driver and a safety pin with a bent end on it ..............................How to spot a fake : The rollagas swiss made will have a roller that does NOT go to the lid it is about 6 mm short of the lid the hinge will have two posts up and three posts down fakes have one up and two down genuine Dunhill do NOT have cubic zirconia set atop the flint release slide. To be continued.........How to change a flint with the lighter in the right hand open lid then on the left you will see a flat bar push this bar back as you do the flint holder will flick out to the right load a dunhill flint (red 3 mm only) into the hole at the back of the flint holder and close the flint holder this is for all ROLLAGAS/ROLLALITE not model 70 ................The model 70 was made in England to change the flint on it hold the lighter in you right hand open the lid on the left hand side you will see dunhill 70 written to the left towards the rear you will see a pin push this pin down and slide the top reaward (to wards the lid )you will see the flint channel replace flint and push the slide forward untill the pin engages done coming soon that funny little key shaped screw in the base.........This is the burner valve it is a flame control valve that should be used rarely but if your dunhill has a high flame that cannot be adjusted down with the rear adjustment wheel (clockwise is up) then turn the adjustment wheel anti clock wise (flame down) light the lighter i give you permission to turn the burner valve clockwise a tiny little bit until the flame is an inch or so high, Then adjust the flame with the rear adjustment (only tiny adj on the burner valve it is not infinite............How to clean your Dunhill rollagas.....Over time your Dunhill rollags will get carbon build up under the lid the best way to clean this off i have found is with mid soap and a tooth brush and water brush all over the lighter with soapy brush wash of soap with hot water (this makes it easier to dry ) then dry thougrouly ...lightly spray under the lid with wd 40 this will lubricate the mechanism
SERVICE KITS
There are four parts that need seals in a dunhill rollagas these are the filler valve the burner valve the needle valve and the needle seal the filler i have found seldom leak the most common leak is from the the burner valve (key shape screw on the base ) the next most common leak is fromt the needle seal this is a tiny seal in the base of the needle valve this is the cause of leaks at the top under the lid TO BE CONTINUED...
THERE ARE SEVERAL OPTIONS 1) SEND IT TO THE U.S,A COST $145 MIN FOR SERVICE EG: O RINGS +COST OF PARTS 2) SEND IT TO DUNHILL IN LONDON COST USUALLY OVER 100 POUNDS OR TRY TO DO IT YOURSELF WHICH OUT OF NEED IN AUSTRALIA I LEARNED TO DO THERE ARE MANY TRAPS TO FALL INTO TO
DUNHILL TIPS AND TRICKS
.The first being have all you need to do the job eg:2 o rings filter pad and tools a small screw driver and a safety pin with a bent end on it ..............................How to spot a fake : The rollagas swiss made will have a roller that does NOT go to the lid it is about 6 mm short of the lid the hinge will have two posts up and three posts down fakes have one up and two down genuine Dunhill do NOT have cubic zirconia set atop the flint release slide. To be continued.........How to change a flint with the lighter in the right hand open lid then on the left you will see a flat bar push this bar back as you do the flint holder will flick out to the right load a dunhill flint (red 3 mm only) into the hole at the back of the flint holder and close the flint holder this is for all ROLLAGAS/ROLLALITE not model 70 ................The model 70 was made in England to change the flint on it hold the lighter in you right hand open the lid on the left hand side you will see dunhill 70 written to the left towards the rear you will see a pin push this pin down and slide the top reaward (to wards the lid )you will see the flint channel replace flint and push the slide forward untill the pin engages done coming soon that funny little key shaped screw in the base.........This is the burner valve it is a flame control valve that should be used rarely but if your dunhill has a high flame that cannot be adjusted down with the rear adjustment wheel (clockwise is up) then turn the adjustment wheel anti clock wise (flame down) light the lighter i give you permission to turn the burner valve clockwise a tiny little bit until the flame is an inch or so high, Then adjust the flame with the rear adjustment (only tiny adj on the burner valve it is not infinite............How to clean your Dunhill rollagas.....Over time your Dunhill rollags will get carbon build up under the lid the best way to clean this off i have found is with mid soap and a tooth brush and water brush all over the lighter with soapy brush wash of soap with hot water (this makes it easier to dry ) then dry thougrouly ...lightly spray under the lid with wd 40 this will lubricate the mechanism
SERVICE KITS
There are four parts that need seals in a dunhill rollagas these are the filler valve the burner valve the needle valve and the needle seal the filler i have found seldom leak the most common leak is from the the burner valve (key shape screw on the base ) the next most common leak is fromt the needle seal this is a tiny seal in the base of the needle valve this is the cause of leaks at the top under the lid TO BE CONTINUED...
FAKE /COPY DUNHILL
dunhill made in japan
BUYING ON EBAY
When buying a dunhill on ebay beware of fakes /copies when a seller says fully working ask to see a pic of the lighter lit $2.00 for gas negates the excuse i dont have any when selling a $100 plus Dunhill and look for schill bidders these are false bids that push the price up there is a seller with very high feedback using schill bids on his items including dunhills NOW to explain ~you list your item at $1.00 genuine bidder bids $10.00 getting to end of auction a zero feedback bidder bids $200 which will push the sellers price up falsly since zero bidder never wanted the item in the first place BEWARE
The new generation rollagas
This to fix the rollagas mk2...let's start with what the problem was on mine. It was leaking. And it turned out, to be a cracked weld on the gas tank, which is made of brass or bronze of sorts...most of it's one solid piece, but I'm guessing the way the gas tank is constructed, they first CNC out the tank, then put a cover over the hole they drilled and weld it in place to form the tank. I cracked this by dropping my lighter. Numerous times. It's taken a fall on concrete once, and survived, so I'm not sure what drop caused it, but it was leaking. I took a torch and re-worked the weld a bit. It was sloppy and make-shift, but it no longer leaks. I made like 2 failed attempts before I was successful, however.
Please read all of these instructions entirely before you start, do not read as you go, it will be a lot more painful.
First, take the pin out on the lid. Same way as on a dupont. Using a really thin screwdriver bit from one of those micro-screwdriver sets is your best bet. Do not try to use something without any leverage like a paperclip or something unless your pin is really loose it will be more likely to damage the case of your lighter than to get the pin out.
Okay, next step, well you can either take out the flint mechanism now or later, but it'll have to come out at some point so you might as well do that next. The screw is REVERSE THREAD! Righty-loosey? Yeah. Be careful. Open the flint holder like you're taking a flint out, take the screw out, and then pull the whole thing apart. There's a spring under it, be careful not to lose it or let the flint pusher launch it out like a rocket as it did with mine, ha. Once all that's off, you're ready to remove the bottom.
Unscrew the gas height adjuster until it comes out. There's a white plastic piece that goes inside it, be careful it doesn't fall out and put the whole piece aside. There should be a screw under where that was, you can now take that screw out. There's now...another screw. How surprising! Take that out as well. The whole thing is held together by friction, essentially. There's essentially 3 metal plates, 2 of which have little ridges that stick out and wedge into slots that are cut into the side of the case. The third plate, is the shiny piece out the outside, and that kind of just goes on top and makes the whole thing more sturdy I guess. There's going to be 2 little black rubbery/foamy things that are basically there to help you put the thing back together a bit easier, and the smallest of the 3 metal plates also has a long foamy/rubbery thing attached to it and again it assists with re-assembly. Be sure to observe how all this goes together, as putting it back together will be quite tricky otherwise!
Once that's out, you should be able to now slide the lighter out the bottom. Well, not the entire lighter, just the gas tank, and this allows you to finally remove the roller as well. Once that's out, you can reach the screw that holds the top of the lighter on, IF YOU SO DESIRE. Note that you may not actually need to remove this part, depending on what's broken with your lighter. In my case, the gas tank was all I really needed to take out, but I opted to take it apart completely so that I could clean it thoroughly while I was at it....Sooo...remember how the bottom was held on with that friction fit and the two grooves in the side? Well, the top is too, however it's a little simpler. It's just one metal piece that friction fits using the top metal piece of the case as leverage. This whole thing is a bit tricky to get out and back in, but it will go back together with some patience.
And well, the rest should be pretty explanatory if you've ever seen how a lighter works, the fuel release is a pretty typical style mechanism, but I haven't had to take mine apart fortunately. On the gas tank itself, I took out the fill valve while I welded it, I didn't want to cause any rubber seals to melt. This piece came out pretty easily, but spanner wrenches would probably be the most proper way, but mine wasn't so tight so I could remove it just with friction and some pliers on the shaft...
hope this helps
Gordon
Please read all of these instructions entirely before you start, do not read as you go, it will be a lot more painful.
First, take the pin out on the lid. Same way as on a dupont. Using a really thin screwdriver bit from one of those micro-screwdriver sets is your best bet. Do not try to use something without any leverage like a paperclip or something unless your pin is really loose it will be more likely to damage the case of your lighter than to get the pin out.
Okay, next step, well you can either take out the flint mechanism now or later, but it'll have to come out at some point so you might as well do that next. The screw is REVERSE THREAD! Righty-loosey? Yeah. Be careful. Open the flint holder like you're taking a flint out, take the screw out, and then pull the whole thing apart. There's a spring under it, be careful not to lose it or let the flint pusher launch it out like a rocket as it did with mine, ha. Once all that's off, you're ready to remove the bottom.
Unscrew the gas height adjuster until it comes out. There's a white plastic piece that goes inside it, be careful it doesn't fall out and put the whole piece aside. There should be a screw under where that was, you can now take that screw out. There's now...another screw. How surprising! Take that out as well. The whole thing is held together by friction, essentially. There's essentially 3 metal plates, 2 of which have little ridges that stick out and wedge into slots that are cut into the side of the case. The third plate, is the shiny piece out the outside, and that kind of just goes on top and makes the whole thing more sturdy I guess. There's going to be 2 little black rubbery/foamy things that are basically there to help you put the thing back together a bit easier, and the smallest of the 3 metal plates also has a long foamy/rubbery thing attached to it and again it assists with re-assembly. Be sure to observe how all this goes together, as putting it back together will be quite tricky otherwise!
Once that's out, you should be able to now slide the lighter out the bottom. Well, not the entire lighter, just the gas tank, and this allows you to finally remove the roller as well. Once that's out, you can reach the screw that holds the top of the lighter on, IF YOU SO DESIRE. Note that you may not actually need to remove this part, depending on what's broken with your lighter. In my case, the gas tank was all I really needed to take out, but I opted to take it apart completely so that I could clean it thoroughly while I was at it....Sooo...remember how the bottom was held on with that friction fit and the two grooves in the side? Well, the top is too, however it's a little simpler. It's just one metal piece that friction fits using the top metal piece of the case as leverage. This whole thing is a bit tricky to get out and back in, but it will go back together with some patience.
And well, the rest should be pretty explanatory if you've ever seen how a lighter works, the fuel release is a pretty typical style mechanism, but I haven't had to take mine apart fortunately. On the gas tank itself, I took out the fill valve while I welded it, I didn't want to cause any rubber seals to melt. This piece came out pretty easily, but spanner wrenches would probably be the most proper way, but mine wasn't so tight so I could remove it just with friction and some pliers on the shaft...
hope this helps
Gordon
DUNHILL DRESS LIGHTER IN PieCES
DUNHILL WANTED
I have been asked for Dunhills that i do not have this has happened twice this week if i do not have what you want i can try and get it for you in this case your requested lighter will be serviced boxed and cleaned please use the contact form above for your request s please include as much detail of what you require and i will do my best to source it please include what your budget is for your request .